Following the Skeena River to Prince George, BC

The Yellowhead Highway 16 in The Milepost begins in Edmonton, Alberta and ends at the ferry in Prince Rupert. The reverse of that route was the way we traveled as we left Prince Rupert on Monday, 9/11 on our way to the lower 48. We could not help remembering that sad, terrible day five years ago when on TV we saw planes flying into the World Trade Center. Like this year, we were in Canada on 9/11, 2001, leading a 15 rig Airstream Caravan. The terrorist attack certainly took its toll on the morale of our caravanners.

Now on this day, we were driving over the bridges and viewing the rapids from the highway that we had sailed under and through the day before on our cruise around the city. The old cannery and the huge logging float areas were familiar sights. We traveled along the Skeena River for many miles awed by the sweeping vistas provided by Fraser Lake Canyon. The Canadian National Railway snaked through the canyon hugging the Skeena most of the way. The names of the villages and lakes indicated that we were definitely in Native Canadian territory: Exchamsiks River, Kitsumkalum, Kim-oi-Ghets.

We drove through Terrace, whose major attraction is the Heritage Park Museum, a collection of original buildings from the region. On we went to the Hazelton Area: Hazelton, New Hazelton, and Old Hazelton. The residents of the three areas are still Native Canadians. We saw many totems and various counsel houses. A replica of the ‘KSAN Historical Village is off Route 16 across a one lane historic suspension bridge. The village is a reconstruction of the traditional Gitksan Village. Lisa, one of the young people we met is a Gitksan. She was with two young men who did not disclose their heritage during our lengthy chat with them. From their position in front of an old sternwheeler, they called our attention to a large black bear across the river from the small park we were visiting. We also saw a bald eagle and its nest there but got a better eagle view when we drove up the hill to the church.

Hazelton is the oldest surviving community in Northwest BC and was head of sternwheeler navigation on the Skeena River. It was an important stop for miners. It became a source not only for gold, but more so for silver, lead, and zinc. They have built a memorial to one of their more famous citizens, John Caux, aka Cataline, who was known for his friendliness to all and for his great integrity. He was called the best packer in the Northwest, and it was said that he would never fail to fulfill a freight contract. He is buried in an unmarked grave in the flats overlooking Hazelton.

We left the Skeena River and drove along next to the Bulkley River into Moricetown Canyon. Huge craggy cliffs display scars of the blasting through solid rock which was necessary to build the railroad as well as the highway. The Skeena and Bulkley Rivers provide great fishing areas along The Yellowhead Highway 16, Steelhead Salmon derbies are held each year. The shops along that road boast that their merchandise is crafted only by native artisans. No “made in China” here!

We had driven 480 miles and were ready to put our heads on our pillows at Esther’s Inn, Prince George, BC. The “Aloha” tropical setting in the atrium with swimming pools and hot tubs was a striking contrast to its traditional outward appearance.