Saturday, July 26, 2008

Jasper National Park

After visiting Banff, Lake Louise, and driving the Icefields Parkway, we thought Jasper would be anti-climatic. We were going to stay only one night. How wrong we were; we ended up staying three nights at the Whistler National Campground. Jasper National Park is the largest of the Rocky Mountain Parks, and the city is quaint and picturesque. It is less commercial than Banff and Lake Louise, and the prices are more reasonable. The interesting building rooftops are uniquely designed to resemble the peaks of the surrounding mountains.

Habitually, our first stop in a new location, after getting our trailer set up, is the visitors center. The helpful young lady there gave us some tips, and we proceeded 26 miles north of town to Pocahontas. We found the Miette Hot Springs a few miles from there. For nearly 50 years, there was an old hotel near the falls which the original owner hoped would rival the big hotels of Banff. Many people came there seeking healing via the hot springs until the struggling old hotel, Miette Aquacourt, closed in 1984. The ruins are still there as are the hot springs. What stories those old walls could tell! Driving home in late afternoon through aspen and spruce forests near blue lakes, we were fortunate enough to spot more wildlife than we had seen since our entry into Canada. There was a big mountain sheep that posed dramatically for us along side the highway. There were also three large male elk and an herd of females a couple of miles from Jasper. There can be few lovelier pictures than sizable wildlife with the Rockies in the background.

The next day we drove to the Maligne Canyon, which is incredibly narrow and 50 meters deep. Swift, gushing water is still sawing its way through the rocky canyon walls. Beyond the Canyon are Medicine Lake, Maligne Lake, and Spirit Island. Mary Shaffer, a hearty, early 20th century explorer, described Maligne Lake as the best boat tour in Canada. We heeded Mary's admonition to take the tour, and we were not disappointed. Our cute little Latvian guide added to the great beauty of the snow-capped mountains, serene water, and glaciers with her unique humor and enthusiasm. We made a brief stop and took a short hike on Spirit Island, once a favorite landing point for native Indians. As we left Jasper the next morning, it was with a slight air of sadness. We knew that during the past two weeks, we had seen the best that Canada has to offer in the way of fantastic scenery, wild animals, and warm, friendly people.

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