Saturday, June 12, 2010

Rocky Mountain National Park

From Leadville, we traveled to I-70 and then turned east toward Denver for a few miles before reaching scenic Route 9 that parallels the Arkansas River. Turning north, we headed toward the famous Rocky Mountain National Park. There were no big trucks, and the weather was ideal as we hugged the blue winding river that had overflowed its banks in places. Wonderful rolling terrain ranches, replete with Black Angus and Hereford cattle—there were also sheep ranches--provided a glimpse of what western rural life is all about. We wondered about the ranch wars of the old days when the open range was the setting of many a conflict.

Eventually we reached Rt. 40 which connects to famous Rt.34 near Lake Granby and Grand Lake. Route 34 is also known as Trail Ridge Road. It is the real corridor through the national park and is closed in the winter due to ice and snow. It is the highest paved highway in the United States. When we reached 12,000 feet pulling, our 34 foot trailer, we suddenly realized that we were the only RVers on the newly opened road. There was much snow on the sides of the shoulders and considerable road construction. At one point we were detained for nearly a half-hour. We passed small frozen lakes, a striking part of the alpine tundra. Finally, we reached the Alpine Visitor Center. It was a great time for dessert and a delectable cup of hot coffee. Again, ours was the only RV in the huge parking lot. The swirling wind was cold, and the sky was gray. There are no phones at the visitor center, and cell phones do not work. There is no electricity at the center except what is generated. We wondered how the explorers of old ever survived in harsher, more primitive times.

After an hour respite, we drove on through Estes Park, the primary resort town near the park. The altitude was lower, and it was good to feel warmth and see sunshine as we entered the Jellystone Campground about four miles from town. A stately Elk stood peacefully across the road from the entrance. We took a short hike and then turned in after a rather tense day of driving on a high, winding, seasonal road. The next morning we headed back to Estes Park and recalled a time long ago when we rode horses out on a scenic ridgeline and enjoyed a cowboy breakfast on a picturesque trail. Shopping in this immaculate little city was fun, as the prices were fair considering the good quality of the merchandise. However, we most enjoyed buying stuff at a high-end thrift shop. For lunch, we bought sandwiches and drinks and consumed them while sitting on a park bench alongside the banks of the rapid Big Thompson River, which rushes through town. The charming Riverwalk, featuring unique, busy boutiques, follows the Big Thompson for several blocks

In late afternoon, we drove up the hill to the elegant, white, historic Stanley Hotel. It was built by tubercular Freelan Stanley of Stanley Steamer fame, who came to Colorado for his health. When it opened in1909, It boasted having electricity, hot water, and telephones. It has catered to rich and famous notables such as Theodore Roosevelt and John Philip Sousa and inspired Steven King to write “The Shining.” Myriad ghost stories are associated with this magnificent edifice, and many weddings are held here. A stunning 1909 Stanley Steamer is the focal point of the vast lobby. These unique, environmentally friendly cars were manufactured from 1902 until 1924. We played the role by enjoying a wonderful, relaxing cup of coffee and a panoramic view of the Rocky Mountains from the grand balcony of the old hotel before departing for our campsite. The next morning we said goodbye to the magnificent Rocky Mountains and headed for Cheyenne, Wyoming.

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