Big Stone Gap II: Coal, Wine, & Books

The Triangle Area that links Virginia, Kentucky, and Tennessee proved interesting. We toured the Southwest Virginia Museum, which depicts many items from the mining days. One account showed photos of the Massengill family. A retired miner lost six sons in the terrible Yancey, KY mine disaster, which killed 23 men in December 1932. We also learned that low-grade iron ore was discovered in the area in the late 1800s, but by 1920 it had become too expensive to process. Big Stone Gap was home to several wealthy mine owners and executives, and a few of their splendid homes still exist.

We had lunch at a former elementary school in Benham and toured another museum. Lynch, Kentucky, a U.S. Steel company town that operated through WW II, was also on our tour. At Mine 31; we observed a memorial to lost miners and one honoring John L. Lewis, President of the United Mine Workers during WWII. He is a legend among miners, because he fought for mine safety. More than once, he shut down the mines with strikes until companies yielded. The former miners who provided presentations at the memorial spoke glowingly of Lynch, which in her glory days had every amenity that a town could offer. The homes were among the first to have running water and electricity. A company shower room had 71 showerheads for workers and foremen. Mine 31 shipped coal from 1917 until 1960. The old company buildings still stand like ghosts. Yet the deserted mine will soon be open again for tourists in order to preserve a proud heritage.

We visited a small family-owned winery. Sipping was encouraged. We also toured the home of John Fox, Jr., author of the famous book, Trail of the Lonesome Pine. He was a friend of Teddy Roosevelt and wrote many well-known short stories. He would die of pneumonia on the screened porch of his quaint, sprawling home at the age of 57. He was married briefly to a famous Austrian opera star, but they produced no children during their five years of marriage. She loved the city, and he loved Big Stone Gap. Dinners are now served at the home upon request, and our group was one of the fortunate to dine there in a rather formal, candlelight setting. The meal greatly exceeded our expectations. Before leaving, Beth, our immediate Past First Lady, presented one of Johnny’s fabulous wood carvings to our leaders, Della and Cecil, a gift from all of us in appreciation for all they had done to plan and execute a terrific caravan.

Near the end of our week at Johnny’s wonderful campground on the river, we had a huge rainfall that lasted most of the night and all day. At least one of our caravanners had to move his trailer to high ground from alongside the river for fear of flooding. Because several roads were closed we missed visiting Carter Fold and Natural Tunnel. Cecil and Della had planned for a year for this caravan, and we were sorry that these prize attractions had to be cancelled.

Before our Sunday morning departure, our friend Lloyd, with whom we had been traveling off and on since July 5, lead an excellent devotional. His subject was the “Characteristics of God.”