Historic Bonavista & Trinity, NL

Ever since we began perusing the Newfoundland travel literature, we have been eager to tour Bonavista where John Cabot allegedly landed in 1497. As soon as we were unhitched, we loaded up with Lloyd and Elaine and headed to Cape Bonavista to see Cabot’s statue, the lighthouse, and a unique seaside rock formation called the Dungeon. At the lighthouse, we talked with the keeper, who gave us a private tour of his station, the fog horn, and the mechanism that makes it work. The latter beams a signal, and when the fog is within four miles, it reflects the signal back, which automatically sounds the loud, haunting horn. Instead of an old kerosene light used by the early keepers of the lighthouse, the modern light uses only a small halogen light bulb. That light is then magnified by big reflectors. We toured the nearby “Dungeon”, which has been carved in rock by Mother Nature. Its large arches overlooking the water look like two big, fierce eyes that would allow no one to circumvent.

From the cape, we drove to Ellison Municipal Park where uniquely beautiful puffins frequent. They stayed out on a little island, but they were close enough to proudly pose for photos. What gorgeous creatures they are with their vibrant black and white coloring and big, yellow, parrot-like bills. They resemble helicopters flying over the water; then they fold up and suddenly dive several feet to capture their prey.

On a gray, foggy day we elected to travel by ourselves to Bonavista and look over the harbor area. We toured a museum housed in several historic buildings which were once the headquarters for the James Ryan Import and Export Company. We learned much about the fishing industry that was so pervasive throughout Newfoundland in its early days. In a tall blue building near the harbor is a replica of the ship John Cabot sailed to North America. We enjoyed a light lunch of the most delicious seafood chowder we have ever eaten at a lovely tearoom. They did everything to perfection, including serving the tea in attractive pots kept warm by an accompanying candle burner. They even had Wi-Fi, which Jerry used after lunch while Gloria walked up the street to a hair salon. She returned neatly cropped; Jerry had to digest that one along with his rocky road cream pie. Our friends have been most complimentary of Gloria’s new look, and it will facilitate hair maintenance.

We then drove around town to capture more photos, as the weather had improved. We met a Newfie, who had once lived in Texas; he told us about a remote sea arch that we should definitely see. We drove 20 miles via quaint King’s Cove, from where several scholars have emanated. Then we moved on to the arch positioned uniquely in picturesque red rock. It was well worth the drive, and we were surprised that there was little signage leading tothe Sea Arch. We knocked on a door to have a lady point us to the path. In the U.S. there would be a ticket window and long line. But here we were completely alone with the lovely red rocks, quiet harbor, and small, peaceful cemetery across the water on a green hillside. After seeing the spectacular arch, we stopped to thank the Lord for such a privilege. It was also a time to allow Gloria a respite after enduring a rather arduous hike over jagged rocks.

On the third day, we again teamed up with Lloyd and Elaine. We drove several miles with them, bouncing along over rough roads in our trusty Tundra, to the historic town of Trinity. If you are seeking beautiful old homes and churches over a century old, Trinity should top your list of attractions. It is a photographer’s paradise. Only a handful of people stay there during the harsh winter season. We joined a 10:00 a.m. walking tour with a local guide who is also a teacher. We literally walked the entire town in two and one-half hours. Our guide occasionally stopped long enough to provide historical facts about certain buildings and well-known citizens from a bygone era, including a few criminals and several entrepreneurs. The old church is the largest wooden Anglican Church building in Newfoundland. Its somewhat eerie cemetery with several downed grave markers is well chronicled with complete records of everyone buried there going back the 1700s. Notably, there was Dr. John Clinch, who offered the first vaccinations for smallpox in North America to hundreds in the area. Our erudite guide provided some of the more humorous records via audio on his CD player, which he carried along in a case with big speakers so everyone could hear. In the afternoon, several of our fellow Airstreamers attended a walking pageant through town with actors in historic dress, but we were glad that we had been with our wonderful guide and a smaller group.

Late that afternoon, back at the campground, several of our caravanners offered a show and tell. There was everything from hand-crafted jewelry to genealogy. It was time for our driver’s meeting at 8:00 p.m. covering the details of the next day’s drive to Clarke’s Beach. We concluded that three days were simply not enough time to tour the Bonavista Area. Several sights eluded us because we lacked time to visit them, even though we were busy every day.