San Marcos, La Laguna, Guatemala

San Marcos on Lake Atitlan is a sharp contrast with Guatemala City. It is a fairly safe, quiet, provincial village of only about 3500 residents, but it’s a haven for Internationals from over 30 different countries they arrive for a variety of reasons: The Lake, perfect climate, hiking, Yoga, massages, Shiatsu, meditation, and for providing services such as hotel, food, and in Josh and Courtney’s case, elementary schooling for local and International children. Some Internationals stay for a couple of weeks, while others appear to have moved here for life. A few of them build lovely homes near the lake, while others rent from local entrepreneurs. At this point, the lake is high due to recent heavy rains and because the silt bottom hampers drainage. Some homes and restaurants have been flooded to the roofs. Pathways that we took a couple of years ago no longer exist.

 

Most residents of San Marcos do not own cars. One can easily and cheaply travel in little passenger boats or the myriad tuk tuks (taxis), which resemble the old Cushman scooters but with small, open cabs. They resemble little busy, red ants zipping around the corners (beep-beep) or through town with as many as four crowded passengers. The boats move majestically between several small cities around the lake. As a passenger, one may find himself seated next to a Guatemalan with live chicks in a box, a huge bag of coffee beans, or by an International packing a dead dog unsuccessfully treated by a veterinarian on the other side of the lake. 

Most of locals are of Roman Catholic faith, but there are Protestants as well. Both Catholics and Pentecostals have their loudspeakers, and their mournful, wailing soloists can be heard chanting into the night. We support a small. independent, Evangelical church, Iglesias Esmirna, and have contributed to their building fund since 2008. A couple of years ago we also enlisted support from our U.S. family members and friends. Sadly, only four of 40 responded, but they will be blessed for their generosity we are sure. The new sanctuary is ideally located on the main street, now under construction with young workers carrying heavy buckets of stone, feeding one small, old cement mixer. The church building has a long way to go before completion. This is an impoverished congregation except in spirit. The slow influx of money allows for only a couple full-time construction workers. Nevertheless, the attractive, curved, metal roof is in place, the concrete walls are erected, lovely tall columns are being built, and services are being held—dirt floors and plastic chairs notwithstanding. They do have a quality sound system which probably belongs to a member who owns a business. The current thrust is on finishing the altar and elegant columns. Although we understand little of what the enthusiastic preacher says, the hymns are mostly familiar. Members seem to appreciate our support and interest in their fellowship.

Life is good for Gringos in San Marcos, but it is barely adequate for the indigenous Mayans, who struggle to make a living. Diminutive women carry heavy loads on their heads, and the men use their backs like pack mules. Tiny one-room “grocery stores” are found on every block, but some seem void of customers. Street-side vendors compete with their attractive fruits and vegetables spread on the ground. A decent wage in San Marcos is the equivalent of $10-$15 U.S. per day. Most homes have dirt floors and no plumbing. Doors and windows are mostly open during the day, as insects are few. Many scrawny dogs wander the streets looking for a handout; sometimes they even beg at restaurant tables. Better watch where you step. Roosters strut and crow all day long. A young bull is tied along the side of the street awaiting the slaughter. The women wear long, colorful, traditional attire, and they always look neat and clean, even after a hard day’s work. The appearance of many older men and women is marred by missing teeth and severe wrinkles. Superstition runs rampant in Guatemala. Weekend firecrackers are sometimes ignited to whisk away the evil spirits. Still, with all of this, there is something unique and special about this quaint little town by the lake that attracts so many from around the world. NOTE: Click photos to enlarge them; click back arrow to minimize.