Antigua, Guatemala

We departed San Marcos on Dec. 8 with daughter, Courtney, her husband Josh, and daughters, Althea, age eight and Mirabai, age one. Our goal was to spend a couple of days in Antigua before flying home from Guatemala City. Our driver arrived around 8:45 a.m., and our house guardian, Samuel, helped us with our luggage down the precipitous stone steps from our lovely cottage. We felt so blessed to have lived there for a month and to have had such an awesome view (see above) of the volcanoes and Lake Atitlan. However, we were eager to get back to historic Antigua, which we had visited early last year..

On our way we stopped in the western highlands to visit Iximche, an archaeological site which derives its name from the breadnut tree. This was the capital of the late Postclassical Kaqchikel Maya Kingdom beginning in 1470. In 1493 internal strife divided the city, and one of the warring clans was destroyed in battle. Other battles and plagues followed along with a destructive fire in 1514. Finally the Spanish arrived, formed their first Guatemalan capital there; the city was abandoned by the Kaqchikel in 1524. But they did not go without continuing attacks on Iximche. The Spaniards burned the city in 1596 and departed, building a new capital near present-day Antigua. Today, this ancient city near Tecpan stands as a monument to the progressive Kaqchikels of the 15th century; it was much more sophisticated than early American villages. This unique city was uncovered by Swiss-Guatemalan archaeologists in the 1960s-1970s. It is bounded on three sides by ravine walls and is separated from the main residential area by a canal. There are four large buildings and two small plazas. each of which contain two temples of worship. Also, there are elite palaces and two ball courts.

After our tour, we drove into nearby Tecpan, where Josh wanted to visit a private school struggling for funding. While he and the others visited the school, Jerry scurried to the city market to check the wares and talk with the locals. A paint crew was doing its thing on the large Catholic Church. One painter was hanging precariously near the top with brush in hand. Two boys were attempting jumps on their skateboards, but they have a way to go before entering the Olympics.

After a sumptuous lunch at a lovely, well-managed roadside restaurant (rare in developing countries), we drove on for another two hours to Antigua, a beautiful city with lovely old architectural masterpieces. It was the country’s third capital until a series of earthquakes in the 1700s lowered it. We stayed for two nights, shopped, ate lots of good food, and savored our good times together. Our lodging was the quaint, old Hotel Aurora, a luxury hotel by Guatemalan standards. For $70 per night per couple, we had two lovely double rooms along with continental breakfasts. The water was pure, service was great, everything was neat and clean, and we even had Wi-Fi. The flower-laden courtyard was a main attraction. We highly recommend this hotel.

Finally, after two fun-filled days, we bid Courtney, Josh and the girls a sad goodbye. It was time to leave beautiful, well-behaved granddaughters, perfect 75 degree weather, lovely surroundings, and get back to chilly Texas. Our flight was pleasant but long with a lengthy layover in Atlanta. We were met at DFW Airport right on time by Bodie, our church choir director, who delivered us home safely to Hillsboro at 1:00 a.m. on Dec. 11.

Hearty Workers and Astute Craftsmen

If workers in the U.S. were as industrious as most Guatemalans, our productivity would increase. The land here is rich with fruit trees, and on our cottage grounds are banana, lemon, lime, and papaya trees. Avocados are plentiful everywhere as are tomatoes, lettuce, melons and cucumbers. Of course, coffee beans are a main export item. Unbelievable corn fields are visible high on the mountain tops. All of the harvesting is done the old fashioned way—by hand. Products are mostly carried to the marketplace on the backs of men and the heads or women. There are occasional truck loads; heavy bags of produce are often carried from city to city on the rooftops of water taxis or aboard tuk tuks. Little spreads of fruits and vegetables, eggs, and baked goods are sold by families along every busy street and highway. The products are a real bargain by U.S. standards. For instance, large avocados sell for one to two quetzales each—less than a U.S. quarter. A huge homemade sweet roll for two or a small loaf of banana bread costs about a dollar.

One of the biggest market places is the City of Chichicastenango. Courtney, Althea, Mirabai and we, along with 10 others, took a comfortable touring van to Chi Chi on market day. The trip is one hour forty-five minutes one way. Along our route we encountered a cowboy driving about 10 head of cattle right down the center of the highway toward us. Our driver had to stop while the cowboy moved the animals around us. Hundreds of vendors lined several streets in Chi Chi, and there were shoppers everywhere. The photos show a typical meat market, hardware store, and tent tops over the vendor stands. The weavings and jewelry for sale were gorgeous and sold cheaply if one was willing to haggle. Ancient artifacts were available that would be museum pieces in the U.S. A few of the vendors, mostly women, were quite aggressive, unlike in San Marcos where we stay. One followed us for about three blocks trying to sell her goods. A few beggars, something that we do not have in San Marcos, were present. All in all, we had a wonderful time, and the little girls handled the long day beautifully..

Artisans are plentiful in Guatemala. One of the best In San Marcos is Mateo; we would love to have a piece of his rock sculpture like the one pictured here, but that would require a hefty airline baggage fee. Mateo has no retail shop. He merely piles his sculptures in the corner of a pathway. He is known throughout the town for his excellent work, and nearly every restaurant owns one of his masterpieces. Mats used as rugs or beds are made from the reeds along the lake shore. A photo shows a man in a dugout boat cutting the reeds near our casa, and another depicts a little man carrying a huge finished mat on his back. Fisherman, following the tradition of their fathers and grandfathers in their dugout boats, create a picturesque view along the waters of Lake Atitlan. The San Marcos entrepreneur that gets our award for innovation is the well- groomed lady top center. She begged Gloria to take her photo, which she did. Then she informed Gloria that she owed two quetzales. Oh well, she was worth it.

Iglesia Esmirna Thanks Our U.S. Christian Friends

Every time we have been in San Marcos we have attended and supported the little evangelical church, Iglesia Esmirna. About 30-40 members worship on Sunday mornings and evenings. The main service is in the evening, but we only go in the mornings because we do not like being out after dark. Currently the services are crowded into the living room of a member’s home. It is a joy to celebrate each Lord’s Day with these loving people. Sometimes we must smile as a dog wanders through the service or a proud wandering rooster crows just outside one of the doors. Most of the hymns are those we sing in the U.S., but we struggle to sing them in Spanish. The Bible says, “Make a joyful noise unto the Lord.” We hope He understands our rendition.

The church urgently needs a new building, which is under construction on the main corridor through town. A year ago they had broken ground, and partial walls had been built of cement blocks. They needed $10,000 to construct the sanctuary and Sunday school roofs. We wrote to 40 of our relatives and friends encouraging them to donate toward this worthy cause. Only a few responded, and we understand that. Unless one can be here, see the poverty, and experience the needs first hand, it is difficult to have empathy with these struggling brothers and sisters in Christ. The church is so grateful to the generous few friends who did contribute as the result of our letter. Gloria’s sister’s church in Ohio responded positively to our plea for funds as did friends from Virginia, Kentucky, Texas, and Georgia. These fellow believers are not wealthy, but they understand that the Lord loves a cheerful giver. We know they have been blessed as we have been to be a vital part of this work.

The photos show the sturdy metal dome roof that covers the new building. Thanks again to those of you who helped purchase it. Now $3000 is needed to complete the front facade of the building. When that is accomplished, the church will be secured from vandalism, and the congregation can move in and begin worshipping—even on dirt floors. As more funds are raised, the new floor will be poured, kitchen appliances will be added, a small room will be prepared for visiting missionaries, restrooms will be available, and the pastor will have an office. After the entrance has been built, most funds will be for materials, as much of the interior work will be accomplished by church members. If you would like to contribute, even in a small way, to this worthwhile work, let us know. We will inform you of the address of the Central American Mission Board located in Dallas, and a project number for your contributions to be designated for Iglesia Esmirna. Donations are tax deductable.

The new building notwithstanding, the little church is spreading the Word of the Lord. A few Internationals attend, but the congregation is mostly indigenous townspeople. Most residents of San Marcos are Roman Catholic. Carlos, an American from Pennsylvania is the most excited and gifted advocate for the new building. He owns a lovely restaurant (see photo) and Internet center, and he wants the new building to have the same architectural beauty that his own facility has. His business is suffering as the result of decreased tourism. Pastor Jose (shown with his wife and son) represents a valuable new addition to the church. His messages are Biblically based, he is dynamic, and he has a sense of humor. He works a second job teaching Spanish to make ends meet. The photo of the little kids in Sunday school features Milia as teacher. She also leads the singing. Please pray that this little church will have a strong impact in San Marcos on the Lake.