Greeley, Colorado

Greeley is a city with small town warmth, tree lined streets, parks, an excellent college and many opportunities to enjoy the arts. With the expansive prairie out one door and the towering Rocky Mountains out the other, Greeley is a city of combinations that complement each other beautifully. One can be attired in cowboy hat and jeans and be accepted as readily as in a business suit for a working lunch. The city was named after Horace Greeley who said, “Go West , young man, go West.” Pioneer spirited people followed his advice.

We arrived in Greeley, CO on a sunny September afternoon excited about getting to see Gloria’s cousin and her husband. Both Nelda and Howard are excellent musicians. Howard, pictured above, was concert master for the philharmonic orchestras of Greeley, Fort Collins and Cheyenne. Nelda was always sitting in the next chair. Their special instrument is the violin; Nelda still plays, but arthritis has ended Howard’s playing time. Their music with the piano or violin is awesome, but the music they make in their marriage is truly harmonic. They are blessed with four children all musicians, and grandchildren, some of who are following in their footsteps. Several of the in-laws are superior musicians. We enjoyed a video concert with Howard on the violin and Nelda accompanying him on the piano. Other videos featured old family gatherings and celebrations. It was great seeing Gloria’s parents and other relatives in days gone by. We enjoyed several meals provided by Chez Nelda, a super hostess.

Cheyenne, WY

Traveling on I-80 through Wyoming is a genuine treat. At a rest area we noted small patches of snow and a sign that said we had reached the highest point on that highway, 8640 feet. There are antelope loping across the plains, snow capped mountains, rushing rivers and many trains whose tracks parallel the highway. Cheyenne, with a population of over 53000, is a true western town whose main attraction is Frontier Days (CDF) held each year in late July. This bronco bustin’, calf ropin’, bull riding rodeo show has been managed and staffed by volunteers for 110 years. Any American cowboy worth his salt wants to compete in one or more CFD events. Some competitors have even given their lives in the quest for fame and money.

Historically, Cheyenne, called the Magic City for the Plains, is a railroad town founded in 1867. President Lincoln decided that the Transcontinental Railroad should pass through the area which would later become Wyoming’s capital city. The elegant old Union Pacific Station (1886), vacant for many years, is fully restored to its original condition. The large clock on the tall stone tower still requires winding three days per week. Like many towns in the West, Cheyenne was first a tent city. By the time the depot was completed wealth was on the way. The early residents had an eye for quality architecture, and many of the majestic old buildings still stand. Construction on the capitol building began in 1886. The Wyoming Territory was eager to become a state, but Washington was resisting because of the small population. The Capitol was designed to resemble the U.S. Capitol, and money was not spared in creating its opulence. The rich cherry wood interior was crafted by Amish workers. It was believed that a grand capitol building would influence congress to vote for statehood. That finally happened in 1890. One delay was because Congress did not like the fact that women were allowed to vote in Wyoming long before they were able to do so in the rest of the country. The famous advocate for women’s suffrage was Esther Hobart Morris, and a large statue of her stands in front of the Capitol.

We toured several museums; our favorite was the privately owned Nelson Museum of the West. We met the owner and curator, Bob Nelson, who is a big game hunter. Many of the animal heads from his hunts are mounted on the walls of the museum. There are also tributes to cowboys, lawmen, early settlers, and Native Americans. A vast array of spurs, elaborate saddles, boots, cowboy outfits, Indian dress, firearms, and pictures of notorious outlaws are exhibited. We also visited the old Governor’s Mansion and carriage house. Cheyenne recently celebrated the 100th birthday of these structures.

Our trolley driver and narrator was a native of the Capital and a retired teacher. He has conducted much research on the history of his beloved city; his tour presentation was lively, humorous, and informative. Unique items observed at various points in the city were large, colorful cowboy boots made of fiberglass by local artists.

Twin Falls, Idaho

We left Boise, ID via I-84 and then took scenic Route 30 to the 93 Twin Falls Campground. As we observed the rolling hills, lush meadows with cows, horses, and sheep peacefully grazing, we enjoyed the relaxation the pastoral scenery provided us. The road was actually in better condition than the Interstate. Hagerman Valley welcomed us with its enchanting fossil beds and fish hatcheries. Most of the trout used in American kitchens was reared in this Magic Valley, as it is called. We were awed by the many springs of glacial water that tumbled down canyon walls--as much as 250 cubic feet per second. Some were trickling through narrow cracks, while others were rushing over tall cliffs and through huge crevasses. No wonder the cliffs in this part of the valley are named Thousand Springs.

The City of Twin Falls is the heart of the Magic Valley. It lies on the south rim of Snake River Canyon. The canyon is a spectacular chasm which drops to a depth of 500 feet and varies from 1500 feet to a mile wide. This area was made famous years ago by Evel Knievel on national TV when he attempted to jump the canyon using his Skycycle. His equipment malfunctioned, his chute opened too early, but he landed with minimal injuries not far from his starting point. The spectacular Perrine Bridge arches across the canyon near the Buzz Langdon Visitor Center. The bridge affords a great view of the river, the vastness of the canyon, two picturesque golf courses and the grounds of Centennial Park. Gloria had a fright when suddenly a person leaped from the bridge. Her heart began to beat again when the jumper’s chute opened and he landed safely. (Jerry had conveniently neglected to tell her what was going to happen.) After watching several more jumps, we met some of the parachutists. They were young men and women who loved their sport. This bridge is the only one of its kind that allows this exciting activity on a daily basis. The jumpers first call the police to let them know they will be on the bridge, so when panicked observers report a supposed suicide, they are informed about the parachutists.

Due to years of drought, water no longer flows over the high river rocks called Twin Falls, but Shoshone Falls is another story. The latter depend on the spring run-off to experience a flow. We were fortunate to arrive after the area had received considerable snow melt and rain. While it is not really the Niagara of the West, as depicted in the tourist guides, the Falls Area is beautiful. Dierkes Lake Park adjoins Shoshone Falls and is clean, lovely and peaceful. While taking a secondary road to the falls, we spotted spacious Calvary Chapel right in the middle of an agricultural area. Jerry went inside and learned that the chapel has a national radio ministry, preaches the Word, and is active in the community. We knew this was the place we were to attend on Sunday. We had an excellent Sunday school teacher who knows the scriptures. Many of the class members were also good Bible students. The music was contemporary and well done. If you ever hear Pastor Mike Kestler on the radio, be sure to listen. He has a wonderful style and message.

We enjoyed an art fiesta in the Thousand Springs area. One of our thrills was a bus shuttle ride from a parking lot to the exhibit area over a treacherous mountain dirt road. The artists’ offerings were well worth the drive. There were carvings, paintings, jewelry made from native stones and gems, and the usual food and beverage booths. A local singer entertained us with her guitar and country vocal renditions. We drove back to the city through the heart of the dairy producing farms of Idaho. Hundred of cows were in stanchions eating silage. Huge stacks of bailed hay and straw were everywhere. The farmers were busy in their fields and didn’t seem to mind our stopping for photo shoots. We ended our touring time in Twin Falls with a visit to the museum located on the campus of Idaho State College. Students at all levels conduct research there.

Boise, Idaho

Boise is Idaho’s lovely historic capital. The Julia Davis Park is one of the highpoints of the city. One could easily take two days in the park touring the Art Museum, Black History Museum, rose garden and taking various rides and tours. Boat trips are available along the Boise River. We chose the city tour on the little red train, which is actually a tram designed to look like a train. The magnificent capitol was constructed to resemble the U.S. Capitol. We were amazed that there was virtually no security. We walked right into the Governor’s office, where his gracious secretary treated us to small gifts and several minutes of her time. O’Farrell Cabin (circa 1912), home of Boise’s first family, still stands in its restored condition. Local musicians perform on Wednesday evenings and on weekends at Grove Plaza. We attended one of those events, although it was moved to a local restaurant due to chilly weather. We ran out of time before getting to bike along the Greenbelt, a 22.5 mile stretch of towering trees, lush growth, and abundant wildlife. There is much more about Boise that we want to explore in a couple of years.

Heading East

Tonight we are at an RV park near LaGrande, OR and tomorrow we will be in Boise, ID. We enjoyed our five-day stay at Lacey, WA, at the Land Yacht Harbor Airstream Park where our trailer was parked while we toured Alaska and Canada. We rested, cleaned our gear, did our laundry, maintained the trailer, shopped at the PX and commissary. Last evening, we played Bridge with other Airstreamers in the park. Gloria tied for number one, and Jerry had the next highest score.

Sunday we attended services at the stately old chapel at nearby Fort Richardson, where I Corps Headquarters are located. We met several Airstreamers who live permanently at Land Yacht Harbor Park. We had a wonderful Sunday school teacher who is also a retired military officer. He and his wife are busy developing a Christian retreat center which will be utilized by the Post Chapel. We hope to be a part of that work with our donations and our time when we return here in a couple of years.

Since last November, we have been full-time RVers. We have traveled south as far as Mexico, west to the Pacific and north as far as Fairbanks, AK. Now we are at last heading east tomorrow, hoping to reach the Air Force Academy at Colorado Springs in the next 10 days. We plan to winter in New Mexico and Texas.

We covet your prayers as we travel. Stay tuned for the next post as we make our way toward Boise, Salt Lake City and Cheyenne!

Tent Camping At Hat Creek Ranch

Did you ever know that there is a desert in British Columbia? They call the area south of Williams Lake along Rt. 97 the “Arizona of Canada.” It really does not look that dry, but it is arid. We decided that this last overnight on our northern journey should be a campsite. We stopped at a farmer’s veggie stand to buy fresh corn and tomatoes for a cookout supper and then selected Hat Creek Ranch near Cache Creek for the night. The ranch is the ideal lace for a family vacation. It offers RV parking, cabins, and tent spots. There are stage coach rides, trail rides, black powder shooting and gold panning, just to mention a few. The ranch is located on the original “Cariboo Waggon Road,” and was once a working ranch; the ranch house is now a museum. There are rabbits, sheep, Clydesdale and Belgium horses plus other animals to delight the children. We pitched our tent and took a self-guided tour. Nothing seemed off limits as doors were unlocked and gates could be opened and closed. We were the only tent campers there. We had a great photo opt time before building a fire and grilling our dinner. The wind was gaining strength and the fire was sparking high in the sky. At sundown, it was time to get ready for bed. Gloria came out of the bath house to hear Jerry calling, “Hurry, grab the tent!” We had not staked the tent corners, and the wind had blown it over, pulling the side pegs out of the ground.

“Jerry, you get the pegs and I’ll hold the tent--oops, I’ll TRY to hold the tent!” We finally got all the pegs pounded in, and then laughed hilariously at the whole event. We had the perfect evening until 1:04 a.m. when we heard a familiar sound that we had experienced most of the other 11 nights we had camped: “Ping, ping, ping.” The rain began to drizzle out of the big black cloud covering the sky that had been full of stars when we had gone to bed. Soon the drizzle evolved into a downpour. They get only eight inches of rain per year, and we helped them get at least one of those.

The next morning we packed our gear and wet tent into big plastic garbage bags, begged some coffee from the early arriving ranch staff, left our $10 camp fee, and headed toward the highway. We left the West Access Route and took Route 1 toward Vancouver and the good old USA. We returned to the lower 48 via Sumas, Washington. We stopped at the National Forest Service for The Cascades for information on the area and stopped at McDonalds for senior coffee and a newspaper. We finally reached the Airstream Park at Lacey, WA at dusk. Wow, our cozy "Silver Bullet" was a welcome site! Farewell Canada. We love you, but there is no place like home sweet home.

What A Lovely Drive!

Tuesday dawned with rain spattering our windows and a temperature of 50o. Our spirits were undaunted! We felt that the day would turn beautiful; we had no idea just how great it would be. We left The Yellowhead and drove south on Rt. 97, the West Access Route described in The Milepost. We drove into Quesnal (kwe NEL) in pure sunshine and short sleeves. We took time to stroll across the long old walking bridge and past the beautiful flower beds. Jerry took a few minutes to make a small purchase at the local thrift shop. It was located near an old log cabin built by the Hudson Bay Company in 1882. It was a supply depot for miners and homesteaders until 1919.

We had lunch with Flat Samuel (see cutout of our grandson) at a picturesque spot on McLeese Lake. Sunshine, warm breezes, clean picnic tables, and big white fluffy clouds—what perfection! Several visitors brought their dogs to let them swim. Brrr! that water was cold, but the dogs loved diving in and swimming around before emerging and shaking off near their owners—yikes!

We began to see ranches and cattle—a clue that at last we were in moderate temperatures. An added pleasure was the train winding its way around the mountains and along the Bulkley River.

Following the Skeena River to Prince George, BC

The Yellowhead Highway 16 in The Milepost begins in Edmonton, Alberta and ends at the ferry in Prince Rupert. The reverse of that route was the way we traveled as we left Prince Rupert on Monday, 9/11 on our way to the lower 48. We could not help remembering that sad, terrible day five years ago when on TV we saw planes flying into the World Trade Center. Like this year, we were in Canada on 9/11, 2001, leading a 15 rig Airstream Caravan. The terrorist attack certainly took its toll on the morale of our caravanners.

Now on this day, we were driving over the bridges and viewing the rapids from the highway that we had sailed under and through the day before on our cruise around the city. The old cannery and the huge logging float areas were familiar sights. We traveled along the Skeena River for many miles awed by the sweeping vistas provided by Fraser Lake Canyon. The Canadian National Railway snaked through the canyon hugging the Skeena most of the way. The names of the villages and lakes indicated that we were definitely in Native Canadian territory: Exchamsiks River, Kitsumkalum, Kim-oi-Ghets.

We drove through Terrace, whose major attraction is the Heritage Park Museum, a collection of original buildings from the region. On we went to the Hazelton Area: Hazelton, New Hazelton, and Old Hazelton. The residents of the three areas are still Native Canadians. We saw many totems and various counsel houses. A replica of the ‘KSAN Historical Village is off Route 16 across a one lane historic suspension bridge. The village is a reconstruction of the traditional Gitksan Village. Lisa, one of the young people we met is a Gitksan. She was with two young men who did not disclose their heritage during our lengthy chat with them. From their position in front of an old sternwheeler, they called our attention to a large black bear across the river from the small park we were visiting. We also saw a bald eagle and its nest there but got a better eagle view when we drove up the hill to the church.

Hazelton is the oldest surviving community in Northwest BC and was head of sternwheeler navigation on the Skeena River. It was an important stop for miners. It became a source not only for gold, but more so for silver, lead, and zinc. They have built a memorial to one of their more famous citizens, John Caux, aka Cataline, who was known for his friendliness to all and for his great integrity. He was called the best packer in the Northwest, and it was said that he would never fail to fulfill a freight contract. He is buried in an unmarked grave in the flats overlooking Hazelton.

We left the Skeena River and drove along next to the Bulkley River into Moricetown Canyon. Huge craggy cliffs display scars of the blasting through solid rock which was necessary to build the railroad as well as the highway. The Skeena and Bulkley Rivers provide great fishing areas along The Yellowhead Highway 16, Steelhead Salmon derbies are held each year. The shops along that road boast that their merchandise is crafted only by native artisans. No “made in China” here!

We had driven 480 miles and were ready to put our heads on our pillows at Esther’s Inn, Prince George, BC. The “Aloha” tropical setting in the atrium with swimming pools and hot tubs was a striking contrast to its traditional outward appearance.

Prince Rupert, BC

We left the Alaska Marine Ferry for the last time on this journey and drove a short distance to downtown Prince Rupert, which is located on an island in British Columbia. The latter is larger than California, Oregon and Washington State together. It is a beautiful land of mountains, valleys, sparking lakes, scenic railways, and deeply carved river canyons. Its highways are excellent, and its climate is ideal for outdoor recreation. Prince Rupert is a cosmopolitan city of 15,000 people representing several different cultures. First Nation people have been here for 10000 years. We liked the Northern British Columbia Museum, where many fine native artifacts may be found. This city deserves more time than the two and a half days we could stay.

On Sunday we attended an inspirational church service at Fellowship Baptist Church. How often do you see the pastor serve as contemporary music drummer? We could feel the presence of the Holy Spirit the moment we entered the door. The church was small, but there were many youth in the service. When it came time for a young layman to put on a hokie hat and address the children, 14 kids sat down upfront and appeared spellbound during his short, humorous message. We would add that there was no shortage of friendly seniors, who seemed as enthusiastic as the young people. In the afternoon, we took a cruise around Kaien Island, where we could observe PR Port from every side. The Captain of our small vessel was Trent, a young man who cheerfully shared the history of the city and really knew how to navigate the rapids in narrow passes. We saw eagles, seals, and porpoises plus examples of the various industries to include fishing, shrimping, logging, shipping, and canning.

We tried something different in the way of lodging in PR. Gloria had always wanted to experience a hostel, so we finally took the risk. The historic three story Pioneer Hostel (no elevator) had been recently remodeled and was neat and clean with old fashioned décor. Its location near Sunken Gardens in historic Old Town was ideal. We had a small, private room with no TV or phone and shared a modern bath. The Wi-Fi signal throughout the facility was strong. We greatly enjoyed meeting people of all ages from different countries in the common dining room and sitting area. The competent youthful manager, Christy, delighted us the first night with homemade cookies. Pioneer Hostel was a bargain at $50 Cdn. per night.

Our 49th Wedding Anniversary: An "Affair" to Remember

Sitka was our last overnight stay (on land) in Alaska. It is ironic how our time in the 49th state ended on September 7, 2006, our 49th wedding anniversary. We did not plan for this to happen. Because of the ferry schedule, our “celebration” was a bit strange. After dinner at the Coast Guard Station, we found their big screen and watched as the Steelers defeated the Dolphins to kick off the NFL season. Near the lounge, we watched a raven chastising a large bald eagle while the latter was perched high in a nearby spruce tree. The raven dove, circled and returned again and again. The eagle seemed bored and simply hunched down into its wings until it tired of the raven’s nonsense and flew away. After the game, we “closed” the city library at 9:00 p.m. and then headed to the West Mark Hotel for a couple of hours of Wi-Fi time before driving to the ferry. By the time we finally got aboard the MV Matanuska, and had our cabin assignment, it was 2:30 a.m. The narrow bunk beds were double deckers, so Jerry slept up top for the first time since Boy Scout Camp. Happy Anniversary! He should have earned a merit badge.

The next morning, we experienced beautiful views as we sailed on a new-to-us marine highway enroute to Prince Rupert. After a hearty breakfast we toured the Matanuska and found it to be quite similar to the flagship, Columbia. We stopped in Petersburg, AK but had only 30 minutes to visit the port and get some photos. The rest of our stops were after dark or not long enough to go ashore. As the boat left Ketchikan, the last port before Prince Rupert, a small fishing boat went aground in shallow water. Our Captain dispatched four of his crew in a small boat to rescue the wayward sailor. Our ship also tried to free the stranded vessel but to no avail. Soon the Coast Guard arrived, and we left the scene. We are sure the Coast Guard asked some pointed questions regarding the drinking/sleeping habits of the stranded boat’s owner. We slept through the rescue effort, so the aforementioned comes from other passengers.

As the sun rose brightly the next morning, we had an unbelievable view of the Inland Passage. Everything from glaciers to wildlife, including eagles, porpoises and a couple of seal pups on a bouy, were special reminders that our awesome trip to the Northland was drawing to a close. The quiet, quaint little fishing villages spoke to the fact that there is more to life than fighting traffic and making money. The old lonesome, scenic lighthouse, which sits in the Inland Passage near Prince Rupert, like the little red caboose, is a symbol of a nostalgic, bygone era.

Sitka's Russian Influence

The Russians were the first whites to discover and claim Alaska in 1741. They settled primarily along the southeastern coast and came to Sitka in 1790. Their influence is still prominent in Sitka. They were fascinated with Alaskan furs, especially those from otters. They hunted them until the otters were nearly extinct. Eventually, Russia could no longer support their Russian Alaska colony, as the otter furs were becoming scarce, and other nations were moving into their trading territory. In 1867 they sold Alaska to the U.S. for nine cents an acre. The Russian flag came down in Sitka on Castle Hill, the old Russian Headquarters. Sitka then became Alaska’s first capital. In 1959, the U.S. flag with 49 stars first flew over Castle Hill. America’s smallest National Cemetery is located in Sitka. Among the prominent people buried there are a medal of honor winner, an U.S. Olympics champion runner (called the “fastest man in the world” in 1920), and Gov. Brady.

When the Russian government gave up on Alaska, the Russian Orthodox Church stayed. St. Michael’s Church is a fine example of Russian architecture and is prominently located in the center of the town. The nearby Bishop’s House is a National Historic Site, and is one of four original Russian buildings in Alaska. Sitka is famous for its New Archangel Dancers. Trained by Russian choreographers, the dancers perform Russian, Moldovian, and Ukrainian folk dances. Interestingly the dancers are not Russian, and their company is for women only. Some of them work in various professions, while others are housewives. They are talented, agile and exciting to watch in their colorful, authentic costumes. They dance for exercise and fun rather than money. They have been invited to perform all over the world. We thought they were terrific!

Sitka-By-The-Sea

We drove our car onto the MV Columbia in Skagway bound for Sitka via the Alaska Marine Highway in late afternoon. It was rainy and chilly, so we headed to our cabin for a nap. The next morning was beautiful, and we saw how awe-inspiring the Inland Passage can be on a clear day. By afternoon, the weather again changed for the worse, and the wipers swished steadily as we drove off the ferry and up the narrow road toward Sitka. We were delighted to find Helga’s B&B a few miles away; it is located right on the Pacific Ocean. Our big picture window provided a limitless view of the coast line as it curved toward the city and over the bridge to the Coast Guard Station. Mornings we watched as large cruise ships arrived and many fishing boats left for the day’s catch. Our room was bright and cheery despite the dark clouds. Sitka has many rainy, cloudy, cool days.

Our touring included a study of Sitka’s history. The Tlingit Indians were the original settlers in the area that would become Sitka. The fishing and hunting appealed to them, and the harbor did not freeze in winter. They fought off the Russians several times (see next post), but in 1804 gave up their claim and left the area for a time. Later they returned and were held in subjection by the Russians, The Tlingits play an important role in the Alaskan Native Brotherhood, an organization that oversees Native Alaskans’ civil rights. There are two predominant moieties in the Tlingit People; they are the Eagle and the Raven. A member of the Raven moiety must marry someone from the Eagle moiety. The Tlingits are known for their weavings, basketry and huge totems. The latter tell a story, hold the ashes of the moiety, celebrate a wedding or denote family histories. We met master carver, Tommy Joseph as he worked on an alder mask. You can purchase one of Tommy’s masterpiece red cedar totems for $2000 per foot. Another carver was outside working a replacement totem that will stand over 40 feet tall when completed.

One of Alaska’s early settlers was Dr. Sheldon Jackson, an educator and Presbyterian missionary. He started many schools for native children across the vast territory. The Sheldon Jackson College in Sitka still functions, and contains the most amazing collection of First Nation artifacts found anywhere. Dr. Jackson wanted to ensure that the native culture was not lost and collected many of these treasures in his travels; others were donated. So that his beloved collection would not be destroyed by fire, his museum became the first concrete building in Alaska. The Indians who provided the labor were amazed that one could build a structure out of dust.