Rocky Harbor, NL

We traveled north on the Viking Trail (Rt. 430) up the western coast of Newfoundland from Corner Brook to Gros Morne (translated “big rounded mountain”) National Park. It was declared a United Nations World Heritage Site in 1987. Small villages and many attractions are included within the boundaries of the park. We are camped in Rocky Harbor on the Western side of the Island near the park entrance. Our first touring day was chilly, damp, and cloudy, but we were undaunted in our quest to study the local area. With good friends, Chuck and Joyce, from our Virginia days, we traveled to Woody Point and Trout River, where we had lunch at a little fishing village out on a point. The chilly looking waves were about six feet high, our hats blew off, and there were few boats on the water. We saw a scenic sheep barn with the animals sheltered nearby as well as other points of interest. We visited a couple of quaint craft shops, which Chuck loves to do, being the master artist that he is. At one point Jerry invaded an old hillside cemetery that has apparently not been attended to for years. Many headstones had fallen like the bodies below that they commemorate. The precipitous climb to the top of the ridge where a photo could be taken of an historic church in the background was a challenge, but the dedicated photographer persisted until he reached the crest. The tall orchard grass was wet and slippery. Descending the slope was even a greater challenge, but Jerry maintained his footing and protected his camera with considerable effort.

The next day we drove 17 miles north to catch a boat tour of Western Brook Pond, an elongated, beautiful, blue body of water that runs between craggy, steep mountains. To get to the dock we had to walk 1.8 miles over a hilly gravel path with intervening spans of boardwalk which crossed over scenic watery bogs. It was a lovely, sunny, morning walk, and we were accompanied by our good friend, Elaine, from Virginia. Approximately 55 of us Airstreamers crowded on a small boat with a few other passengers. The two and a half-hour, weather-perfect cruise provided a spectacular view of the mountains surrounding the pond. The trip was made even more memorable by a few scenic waterfalls. We learned that the pond contains some of the purest water in the world. It is fed by mountain streams which have no nutrients; thus the plants eat the animals because there is little or no algae or other vegetation in the water. As well there are no homes surrounding the pond, and boating is prohibited except for the two cruise boats. At the end of the tour, it was the hike back to the parking lot. At a leisurely pace we enjoyed the many unusual plants and flowers, as well as a female moose grazing near one of the boardwalks. Gloria held up well, but 3.6 miles is much longer now that her stamina has been diminished by Parkinson’s. On our drive back to the campground, we stopped twice. One stop was to see a few whales spouting at a distance in the Gulf of St. Lawrence. We also saw a set of young moose alongside the highway. Their mother was nearby, but she remained secluded in the woods. We do not take chances with the wildlife as more deaths are caused by the deer family than by bears.

After a welcome afternoon nap we attended a dinner performance by a well-known band named Anchors Aweigh at a local hotel. They played guitars, accordions, drums and a keyboard and sang a broad array of Newfoundland and Irish ballads. They also had many jokes and humorous stories about Newfoundlanders to keep the audience laughing.

On our final day, we drove a short distance to Norris Point. Gloria was still recuperating from her long hike to Western Pond the day before, so we shot some photos, visited a couple of gift shops, and had lunch. We also drove a couple of miles north to Lobster Point to see a lovely lighthouse erected in the 1800s. Prior to that time ships were warned only by a lantern in the window of a home on the hillside. People of the town donated oil each week to keep the lantern burning. Now it is electrically lit and attended by the Coast Guard. That evening we went back to the harbor to catch a lovely sunset. The lighthouse illumination could be seen from our vantage point across the water.

Stephenville, NL

From Port Aux Basque we traveled 100 miles to Stephenville, where we parked our shiny rigs on a big concrete apron right next to the water. We were adjacent to the Airport for three days without any utilities. However, our holding tanks and solar panels sustained us. We had free days to drive around the peninsula and out to Cape St. George, but the rainy weather made taking photos a challenge. A unique experience resulted from our getting lost down a remote gravel road. We saw what appeared to be a friendly little home; Jerry went to the door with map in hand. A friendly lady with a big smile named Wanda insisted that we come in for a cup of tea. Her husband, Tom, was equally cordial and provided the directions we needed. In addition, we gained a lot of information about their life story to include the fact that Tom was a retired fisherman. Five years ago he underwent a double lung transplant in Toronto. He even showed us his huge scar that ran horizontally across his entire chest. “They opened me up like a Volkswagen,” said he. After about an hour we again ventured out into the rain after having a word of prayer with our delightful, Christian hosts. We promised to write to them. Wanda gave us a gift of a loaf of her homemade banana bread.

A couple of miles from Tom and Wanda’s home is a lovely old Catholic church, Our Lady of Mercy, which closed its doors forever during the peak of the child sexual abuse scandal perpetuated by the clergy. Apparently, many left the church during that time, as the local church was being asked to contribute to the victims, even though their church had no pedophile priests. What makes this building special is that it is the largest wooden structure in Newfoundland. Much of the marble inside is from Italy. The wooden alter weighs over a ton. Uniquely, the church was constructed by local parishioners who were fisherman and farmers—not carpenters. A foundation now provides the resources required to maintain the building. Special services such as weddings and funerals are still held there. Ironically, the Catholic Church wanted to raze this historic building, but miraculously the community rose up once more to make sure that did not happen. What a tragedy it would have been to have destroyed such a local work of local talent and art.

Our final night in Stephenville we attended a country rock presentation by a cast of mostly student performers. The program was held at the local Arts and Culture Center just a mile from where we were camped. The next morning we traveled on to the loveliest city we have seen thus far in Newfoundland, Corner Brook--population 20,000. We enjoyed a group luncheon at the famous old Tudor style Glynmill Inn (see top photo) coupled with a walk along the water. At Marble Mountain, we saw the 59 foot Heritage Tree. It is of cedar and imported from Victoria, BC. Its 60 images depict 1000 years of Newfoundland-Labrador history. Back in the 1700s, Capt. John Cook spent about three years in this area mapping the coastline. We visited a park named in his honor and watched a humorous student enactment.

Our favorite activity was a scenic coastal drive we took to Lark Harbor about 25 miles from the city. We observed little fishing-lobster villages along the way along with numerous boats—some of which looked to have been abandoned several years ago. An awesome waterfall gushed from the side of a mountain. We had lunch at Marlains, a quaint little seaside café that is famous for its chowder and delectable homemade desserts. We may forget many of the highpoints of our caravan, but we’ll always remember the glorious drive to Lark Harbor.

Taking the Ferry from Nova Scotia to Newfoundland

After leaving St. Andrews, NS we traveled on north along the seacoast for 260 miles to Glenholme for two nights. We were supposed to see a Tidal Bore where the river changes direction, but due to heavy rain, most of us skipped that adventure. Then it was on to North Sydney with a stop in Beddeck at the Alexander Graham Bell Museum. Bell used to spend his summers in his fashionable home in the area. While known as the inventor of the telephone, he conceived many other things to include a hydrofoil boat that is highlighted in the museum. With the help of another scientist, he invented it while in Beddeck. In the end, there was no market for the famous, high-speed boat, and its hull lay for years on the beach. Fortunately, it eventually found a permanent home in the museum. That evening at our campsite we enjoyed a welcome pizza and salad dinner provided by one of our caravan work crews.

The next day we had to drive only seven miles to the ferry that would take us from Nova Scotia to Newfoundland. There were hundreds of cars, trucks, and RVs boarding, but our leaders, Al and Gracie, had done a good job with the reservations. All 31 of our rigs rolled on the huge ferry with no dings to our rigs and no major frustrations. Once we left our vehicles on the lower level, we were told that we could not go back down to get anything. The Ferry, Highlanders, is huge and gorgeous and modern in every respect. There are big screen TVs in the lounge area, a full-service restaurant, snack bar, and internet area. There is also an upper lounge. One can walk the outer decks at will. After shooting some photos on a cloudy day and enjoying our comfortable lounge chairs, we spent a few hours playing three joker games with old Virginia friends, Lloyd and Elaine. The entire trip from Nova Scotia took about six hours, and the water was smooth all the way.

After debarking at Channel-Port Aux Batxques with our rigs in tow, it was a short trip to the J.T. Cheeseman Provincial Park in Port Aux Basques. The park was indeed provincial but adequate. The next day, as a part of our caravan, we took a bus ride along the coast to a wonderful historic stone lighthouse. It was cloudy and rainy, but the Rose Blanche Lighthouse was delightful. It is now a national landmark, having ceased operation in the 1960s. The most entertaining thing that occurred in Port Aux Basques was an evening event held in conjunction with a dinner at the fire house. We were all “Screeched In” as Honorary Newfoundlanders--something the locals take great pride in doing. Screech is a form of cheap, high alcohol content Newfoundland rum. In addition to taking a belt of that (ours was Pepsi) each of us had to kiss a cod. That ritual was performed with great reluctance on the part of us Airstreamers, and after being tapped on the shoulders by an oar, we were awarded our Newfie confirmation certificates. The wild and crazy guy presiding over the ceremony was dressed like a northern fisherman and spoke in a native dialect that almost no one understood. But we mumbled along repeating the Newfie pledge as we understood it. Then we all had to dance a Scottish jig. Most of us looked like cows with crutches. Oh well—just another fun night on the island! During our stay at J.T. Cheeseman, we also enjoyed an evening stroll along a rather desolate but scenic beach with Lloyd and Elaine. Gloria picked up some unique rocks from the sand.

St. Andrews by the Sea, NS

By the time we received the expected news of our infant granddaughter’s death in Guatemala on July 8, we were already in Maine. We grieved and we pondered what to do about meeting up with the caravan in New Brunswick that evening. But our daughter, Courtney encouraged us to push on to our destination; and. Josh’s parents were due to land in Guatemala that same day. It’s not easy pulling a 34 foot Airstream with tears in our eyes and with choking voices, put we kept on rolling toward the Canadian Border. We again promised Courtney that we would see her and her beautiful family in November.Nn addition to everything else that had happened still had to get our quarterly business tax reports mailed to our CPA while on the U.S. side of the Border. That was accomplished during a three hour stay in a Wal-Mart parking lot in Bangor, ME. We pushed on toward Calais, ME where we would cross into Canada. Our good friends, Chuck and Joyce, were already at our rendezvous point in St. Andrews, Nova Scotia. Chuck called with the good news that there was a new bridge into Canada that would save time by by-passing downtown Calais. What a blessing that was. We crossed with no inspection, and it was nearly time of the caravan kick-off dinner at a local restaurant in St. Andrews. We did not take time to find the campground, as we lost a time-zone hour at the crossing. On we went with no clue as to where the meal was being served, except we did know the name of the restaurant. A friendly traffic cop gave good directions but suggested that we park a half mile from the restaurant due to the streets being blocked for a big Harley Rally. Fortunately, we found a big lot for our 57 feet of truck and trailer, and we asked a lady how to get to the Chef’s Café. See took one look at an already-exhausted Gloria and said, “That’s a long way down there. Let me drive you.” God always provides an angel at just the right time. As we walked in to the restaurant, our 59 fellow caravanners were already eating dessert, but our leaders made sure we found seats, and our food was delivered almost immediately. What an emotional and harrowing day!

It was nearly dark when we finally got set up in a lovely seaside campground. We already felt better, because we have several friends on the caravan that we have known for years. It will be fun to be them for the next couple of months. As well, we will make friends with several other couples.

The next morning Jerry went on a scheduled boat ride designed for whale watching. Gloria elected to stay in the trailer and rest after five long, emotionally draining days from Illinois to New Brunswick. We boat passengers saw beautiful islands and rock formations “growing” from the sea, We saw a couple of Minke Whales, a few eagles, and several lazy harbor seals lounging on the rocks. Our guide, who has a degree in marine biology, did a fabulous job informing us of the nature and habits of the various animals. We also passed by salmon farms and herring traps right there in the bay. In the beginning of our voyage, the skies were gloomy, but as the morning progressed, sunshine prevailed.

We also toured an old mansion once owned by the President of the Canadian Pacific Railroad and a botanical garden. The home and huge barn were interesting, but they need a lot of work to come up to U.S. Standards for historic homes.

St. Andrews by the Sea is a quaint, picturesque little coastal city It must be even lovelier without noisy Harleys which occupy every parking space along both sides of the main thoroughfare. But Harley riders spend a lot of money for motels, B&Bs, meals, and drinks. So the merchants must love to see them. After three nights we left the bikers behind and headed up the highway in groups of two or three toward the Province of Nova Scotia.

In Memory Mercedes Luz

Mercedes Luz (Spanish for Mercy Light), infant daughter of Josh and our youngest daughter, Courtney, was born 2 ½ months prematurely on July 6, Jerry’s birthday, and went to be with the Lord less than two full days later. Courtney had begun leaking embryonic fluid and having contractions on July 4. She was taken from their home in San Marcos La Laguna to Guatemala City, three hours away, for treatment. Competent physicians tried unsuccessfully to stop the flow of fluid and the contractions, but in the end it was decided to perform a C-section birth. The little girl, in addition to being born too early, had several genetic issues. She weighed less than two pounds, but her tiny body struggled to survive with an enlarged heart. On the morning of July 6, Courtney and Josh were privileged to place their hands on tiny Mercedes in the incubator room and admire her dark hair and skin. She looked directly at them for awhile with sweet expressions and seemed to relish that special parental warmth that exceeds what any incubator can provide. Then, as suddenly as she had entered this world, she departed without a whimper under the tender, loving hands of both parents who had created her with God’s help. Life support was never removed—they left that up to Lord. His plans are always perfect, even though we often fail to understand them.

Courtney had spent a week with us in Texas in April, and we all had such a wonderful time. Josh stayed in Guatemala caring for daughters Althea, age nine, and Mirabai, age 2 ¾ while managing the school they own. Courtney was so pretty in her pregnant condition, and we discussed our forthcoming visit to San Marcos in November. We were joyfully anticipating the birth of our ninth grandchild. How wonderful it would be to take a new baby on scenic walks and have the two older girls along to serve as our interpreters. But the Book of James says we should make no big plans. Regrettably, there will be no baby to hold. However, we are still to be blessed to have beautiful Althea and Mirabai as our walking companions. Little Mirabai continues to ask, “Where’s the baby?” How can she possibly understand?

When the horrible news was received on July 4 concerning Courtney and the baby, we were on the road to an Airstream caravan to Newfoundland. We asked if we should turn around and fly to Guatemala. Josh suggested waiting to see what was going to happen. Meanwhile, his parents were already making plans to travel to Guatemala to provide support. Not knowing what to do, and with heavy hearts, we continued to pray and drive toward New Brunswick. After the baby died, Courtney said that we should continue with our travel plans where we would see old friends and then come see them in November as originally scheduled. She will need us more at that juncture; the in-laws will have departed, and their school will be back in session. Gloria is not able to make two trips to Guatemala this year.

Our hearts are sad, and we must fight the tears whenever we discuss the baby or ponder her short life. But we are taking solace in Psalm 91. Courtney and Josh feel blessed with all of the prayers and love extended to them by so many. This diminutive, precious baby, Mercedes Luz, came to this world on a special day for a unique purpose. We are struggling to understand that purpose, and one day we will know. Like a little wounded eaglet that fell from the nest, she simply wasn’t prepared to fly. But we are confident that she has been made whole by our Lord. She will forever be a part of us and our family.

“Those who wait on the Lord shall renew their strength; they shall mount up with wings like eagles.” Isaiah 40: 31

The International Airstrream Rally, Du Quoin, IL

We have been to nine or more international Airstream rallies where we always celebrate our founding father, Wally Byam, on his July 4^th birthday. The rally typically lasts for a week, but for some of us volunteers, getting to the rally site a week or two in advance is not uncommon. When we attended our first rally in Rapid City, ND in 1996, there were 2200 Airstreams present. This year at the 54^th annual rally held in Du Quoin, IL the number dwindled to just over 500 rigs--the smallest attendance ever. There are many reasons for the decline: More and more RVers are now pulling 5^th wheels or driving big motorhomes. Shiny aluminum Airstreams are expensive, and many people are still in a recession mentality when it comes to travel. High fuel prices discourage some. Airstream trailers and the Wally Byam Caravan Club International (WBCCI) appeal to an older crowd, and younger people are often not joiners. Yet, wherever we travel people of all ages seek us out in parking lots and fuel stations, saying that we are living their dream, or words to that effect. Nearly everyone thinks that classic Airstream trailers are the cream of the crop when it comes to RV beauty, luxury, and quality. We agree! The photo top right is of a 1935 Airstream that is still on the road. It's the oldest one in existance.

At the international rallies there is much tradition to include flag ceremonies at the beginning and end. Present and former officers are honored in a special way. There are vendor stands galore, keynote presentations, seminars, parades, competitions, and good evening entertainment. The WBCCI Band is fantastic with a talented and highly skilled director. Our capable musicians provide concerts and dance music. There are also unit achievement awards, caravan meetings, and unit and region dinners and cookouts. Tours of local points of interest are always popular. There are also intra-club activities for groups like vintage trailer owners, singles, and classic owners. Church services are well-attended and supplemented with daily devotions. We always generously donate money and goods to charitable causes in the host communities. Finally, the flea market is so popular and crowded that it is hard to get to all of the tables. It’s a busy week indeed, and this year we were so busy that we had to skip some things we wanted to do.

Jerry served as President of Wally Byam Control. That is the CB radio network that broadcasts all of the schedule changes, weather alerts, and committee announcements, as well as answer questions from attendees who call us concerning myriad issues. We had a wonderful parking site right behind the station where we even had a view of the lake. Gloria worked in the station and also managed the three-day party Bridge competition. She won a blue ribbon for attaining high score on one of the days. Jerry won four ribbons for his digital photos. He also served as photographer for the annual band photo. By the night of July 3, we were exhausted, and we had to leave the rally a day early in order to meet up with the International Viking Caravan in New Brunswick on July 8 as it headed to Nova Scotia and Newfoundland. We had looked forward to this fabulous adventure for the past year. We had been #18 on the WAIT list last July, but miraculously we made the cut.